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Photo: Travel: Tanzania: Kilimanjaro: Kili Day 4

Day 4 of Kili Trek

We start out from Barranco relatively early and the first part of today's hike is an unpleasant scramble up the steep slopes of a ridge. It would not have been that bad had we continued up or at least traversed horizontally. But now, we had to go down quite a bit and then, just when I think that we have arrested the loss of altitude, I spot Karanga Camp. The good news is that it is at eye level with me. The bad news is that there's a steep ravine between me and it. In other words, we have to go down a whole lot more, and then go up the steep switchbacks before we can rest. Around 1pm, we finally finds ourselves at the camp, and the girls immediately proceed to waste precious water on a personal grooming matter. Watching Lucy and Alison wash their hair turns out not to be nearly as much fun as seeing them afterwards, preening indecently content with their hairdos. Sunset comes early, as usual, and bathes the entire camp in rather dramatic shades of red. Rob runs into trouble with the park ranger for seeking Daimox Tinkle relief in close proximity to the camp site instead of availing himself of the lavatory, which is about as unsanitary as it can get without deterring even the hardiest of us from venturing inside. A brief sojourn to the ranger hut and an abject apology later, we are all inside the mess tent. (It is not known whether any money actually changed hands to grease the apology. ) Inside the tent, Rob reveals his full faux pa repertoire and gets the girls depressed by reading to them from a Kili guidebook, which seems to have been written with the goal of preserving the mountain free of hikers in mind. We then repair to our tents in spirits exhibiting a mixture of anticipation and anxiety: tomorrow is the 'D-day minus 1.'


Kilimanjaro Panorama From Barranco Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Cooks Wake Up at Barranco Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Ridge That We Shall Be Ascending Shortly (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Kili in the Morning From Barranco Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Humphrey Looks On As Our Porters Assemble the Portage (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Humphrey Thinking Ivan and Eli Are Late, As Usual (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Lucy Verifies the Preference of Three Out of Four Dentists (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Eli Packs the Luxury Toiletries (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Barnabas at His Usual Curious Self (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Kili Before the Fog Rolls In (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Porters Take Off From Barranco Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Intrepid Explorers Contemplate Different Routes (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Cloud Cover From Barranco Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Moon Over the Ridge at Barranco Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
There Is Still Water at This Altitude (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rare Stream Crossing Presents Little Difficulty (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Porters Snake Their Way Up Toward the Ridge (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) We Are Torn Between Guilt (for Not Carrying Our Bags) and Relief (for Same) (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Porters Amazingly Navigate the Narrow Switchbacks (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Ivan in Trekking Poles Commercial (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rob Attempts a Difficult One Armed Climbing Trick (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Humphrey Wonders When I Will Fall Off the Cliffs While Trying to Take Pictures (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Panorama From the Switchbacks (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Girls Negotiate a Bottleneck (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Humphrey Rests While the Group Waits for Porters to Come Through (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Dan Is the Embodiment of Nonchalant Hiking (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Humphrey Ignores Some Pretty Waterfalls (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Our Luggage Reaches the Ridge Before We Do, As Usual (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Ivan Explains the Advanced Ass Sliding Technique Demonstrated by Rob (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Bunch of Bottoms (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Ever the Gentleman, Humphrey Helps Lucy Over a Rock (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Onex Observes Humphrey's Gentlemanly Activities (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Dry Stream Bed Seen From the Switchbacks (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Welcome Short Break While Alison Gets Through a Narrow Climb (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Panorama of the Slopes From the Switchbacks (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
The Group in Easier Than It Looks Traverse (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Traverse Occasions Some Passionate Rock Hugging (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Back in Nonchalant Mode with Humphrey Marking Time (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Porters Miraculously Avoid a Bottleneck (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Our Group Catches Up with Some Other Hikers (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) A Flatter Section of the Ascent with a Gorgeous Backdrop (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) This Was Lucy's View for Most of the Trek (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
A Shortcut Puts Two Hikers Above Me (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Humphrey Waits in Vain for Eli to Request Help (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Lucy's Favorite View Is Humphrey Scrambling Up (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Mostly Hats in This One (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Panorama of the Inversion with Mt Neru in the Distance (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Precariously Balancing On the Narrow Ledge, We Make It to the Top (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Final Meters of the Ascent Before the Break (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
The Slopes Disappear Into the Fog Crawling Up From the Clouds (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) We Take a Break As Dan Rushes to Wherever It Is That Dan Rushed All the Time (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Brani Prepares to Strike the 'Intrepid Explorer' Pose (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Brani Hides Relief Behind Huge Smile (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Brani After Climbing From Barranco Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Lucy Practices 'Conquest' Position for the Summit (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Lucy Obviously Hates Being Photographed (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
The Kili Team Above Barranco Camp with Mt Neru (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Ivan and Eli Goofing Off Above Barranco Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Onex, Brani, and Humphrey After Scrambling From Barranco Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Swirling Clouds Engulf the Mountain (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Ivan the Gadget Man Measures Lucy's Heart Rate and Oxygen Consumption (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) After All That Hard Climb, We Must Go Down Quite a Bit (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Group Is Not Very Happy About Losing Altitude (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
The Gentle Descent Makes the Scrambling Up Part Even More Painful (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Now Familiar Inversion Hides the Plain Beyond (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rob's Catwalk Practice (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Yet Another Grove of Giant Senecios (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Eli Stops to Take a Photo of What I Don't Know (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) What the Sign Says (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Onex Contemplating the Good Ol' Days When This Trail Was Not Prohibited (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Rob and Dan Debate the Finer Points of Geology (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Unfortunately, the Camp Really Is On the Other Side of That Ridge (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) At the Edge of the Moorland the Rocks Are Quite Picturesque (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Reinvigorated, We Are Back On the Trail (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Landscape Gets Ever More Desolate (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Only Rocks and Occasional Tufts of Grass (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Group Fakes Merriment for the Camera (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
The Smiles Fade As the Path Seems to Go On Forever (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Kili Modestly Covers Herself with Clouds (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) If I Read the Kili Guide Correctly, This Is Philippia Excelsa (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Finally, We Spot the Camp Site in the Clearing (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Our Next Stop, Karanga Camp, Is Still Quite Far (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) When He's Not Rushing for the Diamox Tinkle, Dan Poses for Trekking Photo Ops (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) More Slopes with Evidence of Long Lost Glaciers (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
We Discover, to Our Dismay, That We Have to Go Far Down and Then High Up (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Group Braces for yet Another Loss of Altitude with Karanga Right at Our Level (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) We Bravely March Past Interesting Rock Formations (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rob Expresses the Common View That a Bridge to the Camp Would Have Been Nice (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) We Are About to Go Even Further Down (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) I Distract Myself with Sparse Vegetation Shots (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) This Would Make for a Lovely Corner in a Japanese Garden (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Exaggerated Perspective to Emphasize the Steepness of the Descent (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Finally We See Where the Descent Bottoms Out (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Alison and Rob Focus On Maintaining Balance with Onex Wondering If His Poles Would Hold (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) More Interesting Rocks Since the Landscape Is Pretty Much All Rock (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Dan Seems to Have Snuck in a Sip of Milk (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rob Demonstrates the Donkey Style of Switchbacking (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) And Now, for Something Completely Different, the Ascent (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
More Gorgeous Vistas of Very Little to See Except the View Itself (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Increase in Vegetation Suggests More Water (or Else We're Close to the Toilets) (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Another Group Rests Before the Climb to the Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) In What I Am Certain Is Only an Act, Rob Huffs and Puffs (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) After About Six Hours We Make It to Karanga Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Tents Have Already Gone Up and There's Furious Activity (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Alison and Lucy Wait for Their Bags with Sincere Smiles (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Lucy Is the First Victim of the Portable Styling Salon (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Alison Checks of Lucy's Head has Shrunk (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Lucy Exploits Alison's Sense of Guilt to Get Some Head Massage Too (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Who Carried Up the Aveda Shampoo Will Remain a Mystery (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Karanga Camp Turns Into a Small Village (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rob Calls Shotgun On Tent Space by Preemptive Sleeping Bag Placement (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Lucy Sacrifices Her Drinking Water for a Hairdo (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Alison Succumbs to the Lure of Clean Hair the Rest of Us Gallantly Resist (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Clearly, the Girls Have This Trekking Thing Down Pat (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Fancier Groups Carry Their Own Latrines (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Syncing with the GPS, My Camera Is 1 Min 44 Sec Ahead (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Ivan Does the Traditional Circling of the Tent Before Being Told to Put in the Sleeping Bag (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Nothing Much Going On at the Camp at This Point (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Dramatic Afternoon Light with Drifting Clouds (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
The Fading Light Warms Up the Green Slopes of the Mountain (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) A Latrine at Dusk (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Another View of the Loo (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Barnabas with His Inimitable Ushanka (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Dan Prepping His Tent Before the Sun Goes Down Completely (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Ivan Listens to Instructions, Mostly Likely From Eli (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) A Red Tent and the Ridge at Sunset (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
A Semi Successful HDR of the Loo and the Setting Sun (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Some People Wear Gloves While Others Sport Flip Flops (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Finally the Paparazzo May End Up in a Photo Himself (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Lucy Totally Doesn't Pose for the Camera (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Mt Neru at Sunset with Tents at Karanga Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Sunset and Mt Neru Seen From Karanga Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Mt Neru Floats in the Clouds at Dusk (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
The Inversion Seems to Climb Toward the Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Eli and Ivan at Karanga Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Karanga Camp Fringe in the Fading Light (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Fog Makes It to the Camp and Turns the Sky Red (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Ivan and Eli Wait for Onex to Signal That Tea Is Ready (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Drama of a Sunset at Karanga (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) A Cloud Temporarily Obscures the Sun (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Dan Makes a 'to Do' List with Item 1 'Ensure Group Pees More' (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Dan Maps Out the Route While the Girls Get Distracted by the Opportunity to Be On Camera (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rob Had Been Practicing for This Face All Day (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rob and Alison Try to Follow Lucy's Royal Family Discussion (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Ivan's Reaction to the British Royal Family Discussion (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Dan Prays to the Porridge Gods (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Having Usurped the Ladle, Dan Distributes the Porridge (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Mmmmm, Yummy, the Porridge Tastes Exactly As It Looks (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Dan Can't Believe He has to Eat That Crap Himself (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Tarnavsky Family in Harmony Caused by the Availability of Food (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Cyberpunk Rob (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Alison Tries to Refuse the Porridge, to No Avail (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Eli's Maniacal Grin Flashes Across the Table (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Eli Watches Helplessly As the Pap Snaps yet Another Photo of Her and Ivan (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Ivan, the Gadget Man, Tarnavsky (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rod Is in Da Hood (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Barnabas Makes a Startling Appearance (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Lucy Enjoys Her Clean Hair (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rob Regales Us with Tales of Kili Climbing Horror (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Ivan's Dream Is to Have Eli's Head Served On a Plate, Porridge Optional (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rob Absorbed in Celeb Gossip While Eli Tries to Make Sense of It All (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
What Do You Mean, We'll Be Climbing in the Dark Tomorrow Night (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Alison Is Skeptical, Which Seems Her Natural State (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Eli Reluctantly Permitting a Photo Without Making a Goofy Face (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Fog Blankets the Camp (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) A Hiker Having Just Come Back From the Diamox Tinkle Stop (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) The Fog Swallows Up the Neighboring Tents (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Our Support Personnel Does the Dishes After Dinner (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)
Another Group Is Having a Relaxed Tea Time (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Alison in the Mess Tent (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Lucy in the Mess Tent (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Eli in the Mess Tent, Having Deigned to Peruse the Tabloid (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007) Rob Proudly Not Throwing Up After Wolfing Down the Porridge (Tuesday, October 2nd 2007)